Friday, October 3, 2008

rainy day for rodin

Legs hold a torso away from the earth.
And a regular high poem of legs is here.
Powers of bone and cord raise a belly and lungs
Out of ooze and over the loam where eyes look and ears hear
And arms have a chance to hammer and shoot and run motors.
You make us
Proud of our legs, old man.

And you left off the head here,
The skull found always crumbling neighbor of the ankles.


-Carl Sandburg, "The Walking Man of Rodin" (1916)



The sky looked menacing even as I began walking west from my apartment in the Marais along the Seine, but the heavy clouds seemed far enough away not to be a real worry. My destination was the Musée Rodin, separated from the Hôtel des Invalides by a narrow stretch of park that was dotted with old men playing bocci, who too ignored the encroaching clouds. For one euro, I had access to the museums's beautiful rose and sculpture garden that embraced the 18th century Hôtel Biron (now the home of the museums exhibits) in a soft coccoon of wild foliage arranged with the precision of any Victorian Garden.

It took me a few seconds to adjust to the stark otherworldliness of this place - I felt it necessary to remove my thumping ear buds when I turned right and seemed to interrupt "le Penseur" in mid reverie.

I'm not sure if was the storm rolling in or the rustling from the trees that stood as sentinels around this garden, but the gravity of this iron-cast moment was at once all-encompassing yet ephemeral. He seemed to be thinking - How can we try to explain the presence of evil in a world of such beauty and promise? - while at the same time thinking - Now will it be hamburgers or lasagne for dinner tonight? (Well, let's not forget we're in Paris, so the meal choices might be a little more like fois gras or escargot - but all the same.)

And then the skies opened. I hadn't even made it to the neighboring Balzac before the windy warning began. Across the garden, a melange of leaves, dust, and mist began to swirl and sprint north through the garden, leaving debris on men's lapels and in ladies' now-disheveled coiffures. Tourists, buring their heads inside their coats as best they could, scurried toward the overhangs off the buildings. I, a picture of complete self-control and preparedness, smugly opened my umbrella. As thick globes of rain fell, I wandered over to my friend Balzac.

I don't know what it is about this sculpture, but of all the Rodin works I've seen (admitidly, they are few), I find this one the most interesting. He is enshrouded from the bottom of his pronounced chin all he way past his feet; his body or any idea of figure is almost indiscernible beneath this giant cloak. His face, to me, is not particularly pleasing - he is vaguely reminiscent of the old men with an odor of Thunderbird and McDonalds about them who sit, quite content with themselves, at the base of the stairs of a metro stop watching people go by. He may be muttering to himself and passers-by might throw him dirty looks, but he doesn't care. Perhaps he's seen how the world's going to end, hears voices who tell him the secret ingredients to the cure for cancer,or is the only living person who can decipher the grafiti code that reveals every nuclear detination code worldwide, what have you. He knows he's in the the loop and the rest of us are resoundingly not. Thus Balzac's slight squint of the eye and modest raise of the chin - he knows something beyond our ken.

Then the wind wipes that smug smile off my face as my umbrella inverts itself and goes sailing out my hands, landing in a lovely shrub about 10 feet away. Now looking like the rest of the cold wet tourists, I drag my gnarled umbrella behind me to the small garden café.

The storm only lasted a few minutes. Enough time to get a latte and a croisant, of course. But almost as quickly as it came, the rain and wind were gone, the leaves were settled, and the sun woke from a brief nap and began to shine as if denying that it was ever asleep at all. Only long trails of rain residue remained sliding down the dark shimmer figures, like the slime trail of a crawling snail. Many of Rodin's pieces are very somber and sobering depictions of French proletariat hardship, and his trio of "The Shades" seemeds especially moving, having weathered the storm. Their dark bodies glistened - they have crossed over to the other side. They have understood the mortality of this life, the dark, deep suffering that the physcial body can endure and yet they seem to bow in homage to the struggle. They are paralyzed in time, but their presence evokes an eternal movement that continues, even as the wind and rain might usher in hundreds and thousands of new tourists, nations, and epochs. Rodin, in his beautiful mastery of the emotionalism of the human form, has never found a more worthy compliment to his work than this October rain.


Tuesday, September 30, 2008

(never) a foggy day in london town

Following the very rushed move into my new apartment (thank god!) - et voila!-



I decided I'd had just about enough of Paris for now and jumped aboard the Eurostar to rendez-vous at Hotel Dwyer-Kirkland in London.

This was my inaugural trip to the UK, which ended up being quite sunny and glorious. I think I made poor Jess trot me all over the city just to hear me "ooh" and "ahh" over and over again over the city's charm, peacefulness, and those lovely british accents. Paris is lovely, of course, but there was something wonderfully calming - especially after those first hectic days - being surrounded by anglophones and dear friends.

While it's been said that the British are renowned for their deplorable cuisine, they seem to know how to impress their guests with the most delicious "ethnic" cuisine - isn't all food in a way "ethnic"? oh well - that have passed my lips in a long time. Walking through the most amazing outdoor markets I've ever seen,
Jess and I sampled the most luscious venison burger that was overflowing with a crazy tomato-barbeque sauce and soft-yet-crunchy sauteed onions. Naturally, it was followed up by a large piece of fabulous chocolate brownie ["make bread not war" was this particular patisserie's slogan].

I could continue regaling you with the many fantastic meals that we had, but that will just make everyone hungry. Needless to say, the food ain't bad.

I saw a lot on my grand, 3-day tour of London - I believe my fabulous tour guide had a lot to do with that. But now, I am back to Paris - tying up loose ends and getting ready for classes that will begin in a week.


Monday, September 22, 2008

Qu'est-ce vou - WHAT DO YOU WANT?

Day deux in the city of light.  

Still getting over my jet lag and not quite as settled as I had hoped I would be - I am staying in a temporary apartment until mine is finished and ready to be moved into (the painter is taking his time), which will hopefully happen by Wednesday.  

Today, however, was rather momentous in its own right as it was the first day that I ventured the Parisian undergrounds and took the metro to meet my cousin at Saint Germain des Pres.  The physical state of my feet is a testament to how much I have feared dealing with the ticketing system and what I believe to be the very confusing web of metro lines, numbers, and colors.  But today I limped down the stairs to the ticket counter and tried by best - 

"Bonjour. Un billet, s'il vous plait?"

"Quoi? Que-es skdlfi awlskdhti alksdhti (this is a jumble of noise that I will assume is French that comes spewing out the woman's mouth although she refuses to look at me)?"

"Ummm. Un bill-yay?"

"'Allo?? Qu'est-ce sdkjig?? sdklfiwoeiht?(Now there were a lot of hand motions toward the list of prices and packages and vacation deals) Oui? ou non? (I think about here she started poking her finger against the window partition) Ekhtiwiok...WHAT DO YOU WANT?"

"What? Um. A ticket. One ticket."

At this point the very huffy woman behind the glass throws approximately 10 metro tickets into the tray and swivels the display around bearing a price that was way more than I wanted to spend at that time on metro passes, but as I felt that this woman might start shooting laser beams out of her eyes, I paid, grabbed my tickets, and ran into the fray of people who shuffled me onto my first metro.

Success.

I made it to Saint Germain in one piece and wandered a bit while I waited for my cousin.  Saint Germain is a trés chic part of town - I think I passed a Gucci, Yves Saint-Laurent, and Dior each within a stone's throw of each other.  I continued down roads without a map or any real purpose other than to blow some time when I came upon a road that sounded vaguely familiar - Rue d'Odéon.  This was the road that was the original site of Sylvia Beach's American bookstore and sanctuary for expats - Shakespeare and Company.  If this sounds familiar to you, its probably because I was blabbing about this bookstore most of last semester as it was the subject of one of my seminar papers. 

It was very strange being on that street, looking up at the sign that declared this building was the birthplace of James Joyce's Ulysses, and celebrating my little victory by myself as other people kept walking along this rue that had very little (if any) significance for them.  Where the bookstore used to be there is now a very swanky little boutique.  God knows what they thought when they looked out the store windows at a windblown girl grinning like an idiot staring up at the building.


Tuesday, September 16, 2008

this is a test....




bonjour a tous

paris bound in three days. i'm hoping to chronicle my (mis)adventures of my aptly-termed "skip year" to trot the globe (mainly europe) setting up my command post in the 4th arrondissement de paris. yes, this was my alternative to finding a job post-davidson.  and, yes, i think i will enjoy one last fling of irresponsibility before i have to commit to real life.

i'm enrolling in french classes because i just couldn't get enough of middlebury language school
and just because i like paying the student discount at museums, etc.

if i'm not fluent in a year, i'm blaming the recent french interest in the hamburger.

if you are anywhere in the neighborhood in the next year (meaning anywhere in europe) let me know.

for now, a bientôt, and more news to come from the french front.